Climbing Mt. Shasta Guide Book
Route 1, Avalanche Gulch
Excerpts
from the Book...
“When I first
picked up Steve Lewis’ guide book Climbing Mt. Shasta, I asked
myself why in the world would someone write a guidebook on just
one route? Typically, a guide book will try to show most of a
particular area’s trails or climbs. After pondering this, I
realized that the Avalanche Gulch route on Mt. Shasta is
probably one of the most climbed routes on 14,400 foot peak in
the United States. More people have been injured or killed on
this route due to poor information than any other on the
mountain. Steve Lewis’ book dedication gives a clue to the
book’s purpose “I dedicated this book to the memory of all
persons who have been injured or lost their lives on Mt. Shasta.
Hopefully, the information presented here will make future
climbers aware of the hazards of mountaineering.”
This is unique for it is the most
completed guide book I have seen anywhere. The information
presented includes climbing techniques, weather, geography,
flora, fauna, history safety, gear, and, of course, the route
itself. Climbing Mt. Shasta is not so much a guide book as it is
an introduction to mountaineering. I hope other guide book
writers will pick up on Steve’s idea, and write books that are
as complete as this one.” Northern California Trail
Magazine; Chico, California

An Excerpt from "Climbing Mt. Shasta"
Taken From Chapter 2, "Climbing"
Climbing a majestic volcano like
Mt. Shasta will test your endurance beyond your imagination. So why
would you subject yourself to undue risks and danger? Why would you
battle with the perils of nature while suffering with a 60-pound
pack on your back, trying to get to a place that may give you
mountain sickness? Why would you camp overnight on a lonely plateau,
half frozen and possibly sunburnt? Why would you push to an extreme
when your body has already been pushed way beyond its comfort zone?
The answer to all of these can be
summed up in the word, rewards: The reward of self-accomplishment
and gratification; of your making it to the top of the Mountain when
so many others have failed or not even attempted it; of testing your
endurance, courage, strength, and personal ability to push on; of
being able to look up at the Mountain and tell someone that you have
stood on its summit; of your having gazed upon the breathtaking
panoramic view that awaited you on the Mountain's summit.
"Climb the mountain and get their
good tidings. Nature's peace will flow into you as sunshine flows
into trees. The winds will blow their own freshness into you, and
the storms their energy, while cares will drop off like Autumn
leaves." John Muir from his book titled, Our National Parks

An Excerpt from "Climbing Mt. Shasta"
Taken From Chapter 8, "Base Camp"
When
you reach 50/50 Flat, you'll need to stop to take a long rest before
undertaking the final ascent up Standstill Hill to Helen. A broad
moraine, 50/50 Flat was carved out by advancing glaciers and makes
an excellent and safe place to camp for those feeling too tired to
push on to Helen.
I named the hill "Standstill Hill"
during my climb to the Summit in June of 1995. The previous winter
had produced unusually heavy snowfalls with more than 20 feet of
snow in Avalanche Gulch. I climbed on a weekend in the middle of the
month just 1 week after a summer snowfall of 2 feet. The temperature
was very warm that morning and the bright sun was glaring off the
snow causing the snow to soften very rapidly. Other climbers and I
were postholing (sinking) up to our waist in snow while trying to
climb this steep hill to Helen. Fighting the heat and slushy snow
and carrying a full pack in this altitude, we had all we could do to
take one step forward; it looked as though we were standing still,
and so, "Standstill Hill."
Because of the increase in
altitude and the preceding hours spent carrying a full pack on your
back, you will find this hill difficult with snow or without. When
the ground is covered in snow, most climbers ascend the left side of
the hill. In the summer when the hill is free of snow, you may want
to use the right-side approach since the grade is not as steep. For
stabilization on this hill, winter or summer, ski poles are strongly
recommended.

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