Climbing Mt. Shasta Guide Book

Climbing Mt. Shasta Guide Book
Route 1, Avalanche Gulch

Excerpts from the Book...

“When I first picked up Steve Lewis’ guide book Climbing Mt. Shasta, I asked myself why in the world would someone write a guidebook on just one route? Typically, a guide book will try to show most of a particular area’s trails or climbs. After pondering this, I realized that the Avalanche Gulch route on Mt. Shasta is probably one of the most climbed routes on 14,400 foot peak in the United States. More people have been injured or killed on this route due to poor information than any other on the mountain. Steve Lewis’ book dedication gives a clue to the book’s purpose “I dedicated this book to the memory of all persons who have been injured or lost their lives on Mt. Shasta. Hopefully, the information presented here will make future climbers aware of the hazards of mountaineering.”

This is unique for it is the most completed guide book I have seen anywhere. The information presented includes climbing techniques, weather, geography, flora, fauna, history safety, gear, and, of course, the route itself. Climbing Mt. Shasta is not so much a guide book as it is an introduction to mountaineering. I hope other guide book writers will pick up on Steve’s idea, and write books that are as complete as this one.” Northern California Trail Magazine; Chico, California

An Excerpt from "Climbing Mt. Shasta"
Taken From Chapter 2, "Climbing"

Climbing a majestic volcano like Mt. Shasta will test your endurance beyond your imagination. So why would you subject yourself to undue risks and danger? Why would you battle with the perils of nature while suffering with a 60-pound pack on your back, trying to get to a place that may give you mountain sickness? Why would you camp overnight on a lonely plateau, half frozen and possibly sunburnt? Why would you push to an extreme when your body has already been pushed way beyond its comfort zone?

The answer to all of these can be summed up in the word, rewards: The reward of self-accomplishment and gratification; of your making it to the top of the Mountain when so many others have failed or not even attempted it; of testing your endurance, courage, strength, and personal ability to push on; of being able to look up at the Mountain and tell someone that you have stood on its summit; of your having gazed upon the breathtaking panoramic view that awaited you on the Mountain's summit.

"Climb the mountain and get their good tidings. Nature's peace will flow into you as sunshine flows into trees. The winds will blow their own freshness into you, and the storms their energy, while cares will drop off like Autumn leaves." John Muir from his book titled, Our National Parks

An Excerpt from "Climbing Mt. Shasta"
Taken From Chapter 8, "Base Camp"

When you reach 50/50 Flat, you'll need to stop to take a long rest before undertaking the final ascent up Standstill Hill to Helen. A broad moraine, 50/50 Flat was carved out by advancing glaciers and makes an excellent and safe place to camp for those feeling too tired to push on to Helen.

I named the hill "Standstill Hill" during my climb to the Summit in June of 1995. The previous winter had produced unusually heavy snowfalls with more than 20 feet of snow in Avalanche Gulch. I climbed on a weekend in the middle of the month just 1 week after a summer snowfall of 2 feet. The temperature was very warm that morning and the bright sun was glaring off the snow causing the snow to soften very rapidly. Other climbers and I were postholing (sinking) up to our waist in snow while trying to climb this steep hill to Helen. Fighting the heat and slushy snow and carrying a full pack in this altitude, we had all we could do to take one step forward; it looked as though we were standing still, and so, "Standstill Hill."

Because of the increase in altitude and the preceding hours spent carrying a full pack on your back, you will find this hill difficult with snow or without. When the ground is covered in snow, most climbers ascend the left side of the hill. In the summer when the hill is free of snow, you may want to use the right-side approach since the grade is not as steep. For stabilization on this hill, winter or summer, ski poles are strongly recommended.

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Climbing Mt. Shasta
ISBN# 1-888740-05-1
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© 1996-2008 Climbing Mt. Shasta - Steve Lewis, author of "Climbing Mt. Shasta" Guide Book. All Rights Reserved.